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Book of Hate.

October 10th, 2009

So, Book of Hate is a 13d in Tuolumne that could best be described as gnar probably. Micah and I found our own book of hate gnar today. In Leavenworth.  Here’s a picture of my ‘crimp’, if you can call it that, pulling onto Quest for Fire (V.9) at Mountain Home Boulders. Gnar.

The most painful crimp I've ever latched.

The most painful crimp I've ever latched.

Micah perched in the frigid temps searching for sun next to Quest for Fire.

Micah perched in the frigid temps searching for sun next to Quest for Fire.

We headed out for L-town at 5:45 am this morning wanting to get an early start since we decided not to head up the night before. The reason we didn’t go Friday night was because the overnight low was supposed to be 22 F. Yeah, F that. We got to Forestland and were “warming up” at 9am. It was effing snowing on us until 11am. Yeah, F that too. Everything hurt. I couldn’t feel shit, but I knew I was on my hold if it hurt really bad. I knew I’d dry-fired and blown my hold if it hurt like hell and I’d hit myself in the face or chest, and was suddenly on the ground. There was no comfort anywhere. We worked on lines from V.4 to V.10, many I pulled onto, some I just said “Yeah, F that” to.

Micah on the huge move on Dangle (7a, though Fritz calls it a 7b)

Micah on the huge move on Dangle (7a, though Fritz calls it a 7b)

At around 12:30 my feet were burning from the cold so bad I said “F this” (notice a theme here?) and convinced Micah that Mountain Home Boulders were where we wanted to concentrate (Quest for Fire and Star Wars), so we bailed. On the way out, the girls that had been climbing hard and drinking beer harder since 10am had found a crowd of horney groupie dudes to cling to. Ha! Later Portlander hoes! One was chatting up Joel Campbell in the lot (So, you vant to sign my book, ja? You know vat to do, ja. Sign zee book, ja!) It was a zoo.

Quest for Fire ALMOST went. My beta is to match right before the throw to the jug. Mica likes to just throw to the jug. Neither of the beta worked today. It never got above 40 F. F that.

Star Wars didn’t go much better, colder than shit. Painful as hell. So, zee boulders are fur zee climbing, ja? Not today.

Fall colors and the Icicle Valley from the Star Wars boulders at Mountain Home.

Fall colors and the Icicle Valley from the Star Wars boulders at Mountain Home.

Tomorrow, Sarah and I are supposed to spend the next two days in L-town doing this same thing. I think I might try to talk her into doing some alpine up Esmerelda Peaks area on the other side of the Stuart Range. Just as cold, but less frostbite.

Author: Dasso Categories: climbing Tags: ,
  1. October 11th, 2009 at 01:13 | #1

    Goddamnit, even when I’m at home, safe and sound, you keep making me laugh until my jaw hurts! Ja, that iz what she said, ja?
    F cold weather, and F stupid hard boulder problems. I just want to sit in my apartment stroking my kitty. Ja?

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